Root cutting — whether by high-pressure water jetter with a root-cutting head or a mechanical cutter — removes the root mass inside the pipe. It does not remove the crack or open joint the roots came through, and it does not affect the tree.
Because the tree survives and the doorway stays open, regrowth is close to guaranteed. How fast depends on the species (figs and camphor laurels are notoriously aggressive), the season, and how much moisture the pipe leaks. Six to eighteen months is typical before symptoms return.
Your realistic options are:
- Scheduled maintenance cutting — accept regrowth and book jetting at intervals that stay ahead of it. Lowest upfront cost, but ongoing, and the pipe keeps degrading.
- Patch relining — a structural liner installed over the specific entry point, sealing it from the inside without digging. Good when the camera shows one or two isolated entry points in otherwise sound pipe.
- Full-length relining — a new structural pipe formed inside the old one, sealing every joint in the run. Suited to older pipes with multiple entry points.
- Excavation and replacement — digging up and replacing the damaged section, used when pipe is collapsed or badly back-graded.
The right choice depends entirely on what the camera shows, which is why a CCTV inspection after cutting is standard practice — it turns a guess into an informed decision.